Encapsulating a crawl space is a common way to deal with moisture or flooding. It is also an easy way to quickly get control of the air quality in the home and lockout rodents and insects. When you’re thinking about “green-ovating” your home, or simply getting control of the moisture or humidity, when you have a crawl space, you must encapsulate.
Encapsulation does a great deal for the crawlspace and for the home above.
What the process is and what it does
The practice of encapsulating or “sealing off” a crawlspace is done to lock out moisture and cut off the connection between moisture, water and the joists of a home. By running a vapor barrier down the walls of a crawl space to completely cover the floor, you essential separate the outside from the inside of the home.
This vapor barrier will be the flexible membrane between the walls and floor and the rest of the home. A properly designed vapor barrier will limit the transfer of moisture through it while regulating the speed at which air will naturally pass through. This helps to limit and control the amount of moisture that will find its way into the air space and completely segregate liquid water and direct it to a sump location.
5 helpful tips when having a Vapor Barrier installed in your crawlspace:
1.) Not all vapor barriers are made for this task – careful. There are many products out in the world that claim to be able to fully encapsulate a crawl space. Make sure that your vapor barrier has a low “perm” rate and that it is at least 14mil thick. If you’re planning to use the space for storage make sure that a flexible sub-flooring product is also placed on top of the vapor barrier to protect it.
2.) Cover the walls too – all too often contractors forget to also encapsulate the walls of the crawl space when installing a vapor barrier. This can still allow water and moisture into the basement and therefore render the whole project useless. Take care to make sure it’s installed properly.
3.) Don’t use sprays. – Sealants and sprays aren’t designed to be applied on the interior of the basement. They are good in many circumstances as the “first line of defense” but as the last, they can’t hold the pressure and moisture trapped in a wall.
4.) Install a sump and a dehumidifier – to totally control the moisture level in the crawl space it’s imperative that you have a sump pump and a dehumidifier installed. Moisture will still exist, although not to dangerous levels, but a sump will remove any liquid water your encapsulation traps, and the dehumidifier will deal with any residual moisture that naturally collects in the space.
Basement Finishing Ideas For The Do-It-Yourselfer
Outlined below are the most common 4 methods I have seen used in installing a vapor barrier. If you talk to different builders, you usually will end up with many different methods of installing a vapor barrier in a crawlspace. Here are the most common:
1. Pea Gravel on top of plastic vapor barrier - This has to be the all time dumbest thing I have ever seen, and yet it is probably one of the most common. I have had builders tell me that the plastic on the ground KEEPS ground water and moisture from coming up from the ground. Now if there is no moisture or water in the soil, this might be possible; but if that was the case there would be no need for the barrier in the first place. So here is the basic idea - ground floor (bottom) - plastic (middle) - 4" pea gravel fill (top). Once the crawl foundation is built, builders install a 4 - 6 mil plastic on the ground and dump about 4" - 6" of pea gravel on top of the plastic. Eventually, what always happens is that water comes in from the walls and the ground floor and ends up on top of the plastic. So what you end up with is a swimming pool liner that holds water in the gravel for prolonged periods of time. Nearly all the water and moisture in the gravel back fill has to evaporate into the structure. Another example of building practices and science turning a blind eye to crawlspaces for decades.
2. Vapor barrier on top of ground floor - By far the most common practice for installing a vapor barrier. A 6 mil polyethylene vapor barrier is placed over any ground floor. Here is the idea - ground floor (bottom) - plastic (top). The ground floor could be river rock, pea gravel, dirt floor, sand, etc. The seams are typically overlapped 6" - 12" and almost never taped. While this will temporarily stop some moisture evaporation, it does not seal out moisture from the internal perimeter wall where most water penetration occurs. Also moisture can come up from the seams, and the plastic is not durable enough to crawl on. It nearly always ends up with many punctures and holes in it.
3. Vapor barrier on bottom of floor joists - This is rarely seen, and usually only home owners attempt this. This is probably the method that accounts for more wood rot than any other method. If you are even thinking of doing this, quit thinking and call a professional to fix your crawlspace. Most crawlspaces are vented and the cooler surfaces such as duct work, pipes, and the floor will condensate in the summer. The plastic will trap the condensation up against the floor structure and mold and wood rot will occur. Good intentions do not always produce good results.
4. Vapor barrier fastened to sill plate - There is a new industry in crawlspace repair that encapsulates crawl spaces. The process of encapsulation is to install a heavy think plastic liner on the floor and up the foundation walls. The plastic liner is fastened and sealed to the foundation wall and all the overlapped seams are taped. Every potential gap or seam in the liner is meticulously sealed to prevent any moisture from evaporating. Then the vents are sealed in the encapsulation system to prevent hot humid air from entering in the summer. There is another system being sold and installed out there being represented as an encapsulation system, but is far from it.
This "other" system is a 6 mil plastic that is ran up the foundation walls and stapled to the sill plate. None of the overlapped seams are taped. It is basically a glorified vapor barrier on top of the ground floor being ran up the walls and stapled to the wood. They seal the vents without properly sealing the moisture from the ground floor or foundation walls. The problem with fastening plastic to the sill plate is that moisture will "wick" up the foundation wall, and moisture will absorb into the sill plate and floor joists. They are giving free access to all the moisture under the liner to rot the sill plates and floor joists. Not to mention that all the moisture will evaporate up through all of the seams that aren't taped and the plastic liner is only 6 mil and eventually will puncture and tear. Be very careful in the contractor you choose to properly encapsulate your crawlspace.
Crawl Space Dig Out: How to Turn Your Crawl Space Into a Basement
The foundation of your house depends on a strong basement. Basement waterproofing prevents water from penetrating into the basement area Waterproofing your basement is mandatory or else it could lead to structural damages and collapsing drywall.
Given below are 5 reasons why basement waterproofing is essential:
" Structural damage: Water seepage is very common problem in basements; especially if you live in wet areas with moist soil. If you do not take proper preventive measures for this problem then it could lead to structural damages to your property. You find seepage mainly in the corners where the wall meets the floor. This process is typically slow and won't show immediate consequences but if ignored then it could cause major damages such as bowed walls and cracked foundation. Basement waterproofing is very important to treat wet basements. Timely preventions can save you from disastrous structural damages.
" Infestations: If you live in an area where there are black molds, then it becomes absolutely essential to waterproof your basement. Damp areas are a breeding ground for waterborne contaminants such as black mold. All kinds of mold can grow between walls and under padding of wet carpets; the worst kinds are the black molds. It is very toxic and can cause death. If basement waterproofing is not done in time them these infestations keep breeding in the wet areas which can cause major health hazards. You may even have to abandon the house if the professionals are not able to take care of the infestations.
" Natural calamities: If you live in an area where there is heavy rainfall or in hurricane areas, basement waterproofing becomes very essential. These areas are prone to flooding; as a result, water is very likely to enter the basement. Rainwater can penetrate through cracks in the wall causing seepage. Also when flood water collects around the foundation walls, water collects in small pockets in the soil next to the foundation and starts forming hydrostatic pressure. Over the time this pressure increases until the water is pushed through the wall. Thus basement waterproofing becomes necessary in such areas.
" Damage to property: Most of us keep a lot of stuff in the basement like furniture, books, equipments, etc. sometimes there are workshops or even wine cellars down in the basement. But if the basement is not waterproofed then water seepage can cause a lot of damage to your property. Wooden furniture rots when it gets damp. Expensive items could be damaged due to dampness. It you plan to use your basement for important purposes then it becomes even more essential to waterproof your basement.
" Sloping and grading: It's important to know if the ground around your house is sloping away from your foundation. The soil outside should meet the walls; if it doesn't then the water can penetrate between the gaps. In this case you have to hire a professional grader to help slope the ground downhill and away from your house. But as preventive measures it is best to waterproof your basement just in case you do not detect the sloping around your house instantly.
Basement waterproofing can be expensive but it's worth the cost to prevent you from irreparable damages in the future.